WHEN WALKING

A DIET OF CHESTNUTS

September 10, 2026

Home to Santiago – Day 47 San Sebastián to Getaria: 26km I am standing in the sunshine on the waterfront of San Sebastián, on the phone to pilgrim Claire, now back in Paris, and congratulating myself on a perfectly formed future perfect sentence. I said I was going to leave at six this morning. I…
BERETS AND FERRIES

September 9, 2026

Home to Santiago – Day 46 Irun to San Sebastián: 26km This morning the hostel wakes us with the sound of cockerels and Mozart. I feel suitably uplifted. At breakfast I somehow end up with the same people as last night. I say goodbye to the lovely Marie Lourdes and enjoy one last opportunity to…
REINTEGRATION

September 8, 2026

Home to Santiago – Day 45 Saint-Jean-de-Luz to Irún: 18km It’s a cool day, grey, beautifully grey. Last night a storm finally broke the humidity, and everything feels fresh. I walk with Mickey today. The road takes us out of Saint-Jean-de-Luz through the harbour and then into the back streets and foothills of the Pyrenees.…
SEASIDE SAUNA SAUNTER

September 7, 2026

Home to Santiago – Day 44 Bayonne to Saint-Jean-de-Luz: 26km The group is divided very neatly into those who snored and those who stayed awake because of the snoring. But a cup of coffee later, it’s amazing how you can just carry on. We have breakfast together and exchange a few names. The people going…
SHOWDOWN AT THE OCEAN CAFÉ

September 6, 2026

Home to Santiago – Day 43 Labenne-Océan to Bayonne: 20km It doesn’t take long after leaving the campsite to become public property again. For one week, I ceased to be the lone outsider looking in and became part of the large family group, enjoying life from the inside: doubling up tables at restaurants, foam parties,…