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AVE MARIA
Home to Santiago – Day 57 Santander to Santillana del Mar: 37km I leave the albergue while it’s still dark and head for the first café, where, as the door is open, I’m let in, along with a guy waiting for the fruit machines and a woman ready for her first beer of the day,…
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WALKING ON WATER
Home to Santiago – Day 56 Güemes to Santander – 19km At breakfast, Ilke shouts across the table, “Hey, how much did you make last night?” It’s raining a little as I leave, but just before the cliff route, as it eases off, I decide to take off my coat. Not the waterproof trousers, because…
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