• AVE MARIA

    AVE MARIA

    Home to Santiago – Day 57 Santander to Santillana del Mar: 37km I leave the albergue while it’s still dark and head for the first café, where, as the door is open, I’m let in, along with a guy waiting for the fruit machines and a woman ready for her first beer of the day,…

  • WALKING ON WATER

    WALKING ON WATER

    Home to Santiago – Day 56 Güemes to Santander – 19km At breakfast, Ilke shouts across the table, “Hey, how much did you make last night?” It’s raining a little as I leave, but just before the cliff route, as it eases off, I decide to take off my coat. Not the waterproof trousers, because…

  • MISJUDGED

    MISJUDGED

    Home to Santiago – Day 55 Laredo to Güemes: 29km I notice there is only one pair of boots left on the rack when I leave the convent, and I suspect the nuns only keep those there to make people like me feel a bit better. While packing, I chat with my roommate, Aya, a…

  • WATERPROOF

    WATERPROOF

    Home to Santiago – Day 54 Pomar to Laredo: 17km I usually write as I walk, but today I am writing in retrospect. Today, the heavy rain made it impossible to stop and record any thoughts while walking. I’m interested to see what happens. I sleep well in my luxurious tent to the sound of…

  • DOUBLE DUTCH

    DOUBLE DUTCH

    Home to Santiago – Day 53 Pobeña to Pomar: 30km I pack while three pilgrims, also having a late departure, sit and chat. One man holds forth with views on how you should walk the Camino, the others defer, with the occasional interjection of, “To each their own Camino,” to which there is a general…

  • ¡HOMBRE!

    ¡HOMBRE!

    Home to Santiago – Day 52 Bilbao to Pobeña: 28km My bad Spanish will get me into all kinds of trouble today. But first, a stroll through beautiful Bilbao, to visit two landmarks: the cathedral and Decathlon. As I’m walking out of Bilbao, out towards the industrial areas along the river, I hear a voice…

  • ENTERING BILBAO

    ENTERING BILBAO

    Home to Santiago – Day 51 Pozueta to Bilbao: 25km The breakfast at Pozueta included cake, which is a fine start to any day. Setting off at the back of the pack, I look forward to seeing who I might overtake today. I’m pleased to recognise the Australian from Melbourne and walk up to him…

  • RECONCILIATION

    RECONCILIATION

    Home to Santiago – Day 50 Ziortza to Pozueta: 23km The day starts with inspiration in the form of Mirentxu. At breakfast, which we seem to be taking in naturally forming batches, I’m sitting at the table with two Latvian guys, Chiara from Italy and 85 year-old Mirentxu, who is perched at the end, sprightly,…

  • PASSING

    PASSING

    Home to Santiago – Day 49 Deba to Ziortza: 28km Today I decided, in the nicest possible way, to get away from people for a bit. My escape was slightly hindered by the discovery that one of my sticks had been taken this morning. By accident, I’m sure. No one would choose to steal my…

  • YOU CAN CALL ME ‘MISTER LEE’

    YOU CAN CALL ME ‘MISTER LEE’

    Home to Santiago – Day 48 Getaria to Deba: 20km I am missing the simplicity of being alone a little. By the time I’m up, it’s mainly the people who are taking a day off who are still having breakfast. I chat with Michael, a young Austrian, visiting friends today, and receive a message from…

September 2026
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