• SILENCIO

    SILENCIO

    Home to Santiago – Day 67 Muros de Nalón to Playa del Silencio: 25km Walking with the threat of rain gives a certain focus. On top of that, the breakfast at La Naranja Peregrina is so huge that I couldn’t really justify stopping for a second breakfast today, even if the opportunity had arisen, which…

  • A BEACH TOO FAR

    A BEACH TOO FAR

    Home to Santiago – Day 66 Avilés to Muros de Nalón: 31km I do a bad thing this morning. I lose track of time, and so at 8:45, when I try to leave by the main gate, and I can’t get out. I presume I’ve been locked in. I go to the other exit, which…

  • INDUSTRIAL EVOLUTION

    INDUSTRIAL EVOLUTION

    Home to Santiago – Day 65 Gijón to Avilés: 27km I’m really enjoying Sunday morning in Gijón, after my glorious lie-in until 9:30. I can’t rush today. I walked so fast yesterday in my excitement to get to the hotel that I risked over-stretching a tendon in my foot. So I’m going to do the…

  • THE OTHER SIDE OF THE MOUNTAIN

    THE OTHER SIDE OF THE MOUNTAIN

    Home to Santiago – Day 64 Villaviciosa to Gijón: 27km (Warning: this blog post contains several references to Gijón (Xixón). Please note this should be pronounced in your head as the ‘hee-haw’ of a donkey braying. It adds immeasurably to the charm of the place). “Why have I not seen you since the convent?” asks…

  • ONE FOOT AFTER ANOTHER

    ONE FOOT AFTER ANOTHER

    Home to Santiago – Day 63 La Isla to Villaviciosa: 24km Somehow, I’m one of the first up, and even one of the first to leave this morning. Obviously, not before the Germans. I take a few photographs before leaving. This has been a catch-up point, a big albergue with few alternatives around. Another major…

  • EROSION

    EROSION

    Home to Santiago – Day 62 Piñeres de Pria to La Isla: 40km My first thoughts this morning, on setting out: why doesn’t everyone take the coastal path? A little later, my next thought: I wonder when the official path first went by a café for second breakfast. My third major thought: what would a…

  • THE TAO OF POO

    THE TAO OF POO

    Home to Santiago – Day 61 Llanes to Piñeres de Pria: 33km A photograph does not capture the sound on this path, the constant roaring and crashing of the sea to one side, relentlessly eating away at the bases of the cliffs. On the other side, the high mountains shaped only by wind, and the…

  • WANDERING OFF

    WANDERING OFF

    Home to Santiago – Day 60 Pendueles to Llanes: 15km Today is a holiday. I walk a short day into Llanes today. I want time to do the coast properly. Almost immediately after leaving Aves de Paso, I come to a beautiful beach, completely empty, apart from one lone beginner surfer practising on the gentle…

  • HOME IN TIME FOR DINNER

    HOME IN TIME FOR DINNER

    Home to Santiago – Day 59 San Vicente de la Barquera to Pendueles: 28km I wake up in the dormitory to a message from Maria, back at work, seizing assets and sending love. I leave late and, rather than setting straight off, head to the viewpoint behind the church for the views over the river…

  • PEARLS

    PEARLS

    Home to Santiago – Day 58 Santillana del Mar to San Vicente de la Barquera: 35km This morning as I stop at a small church in the hills above Santillana del Mar. I meet Thomas from Germany. He has a lean and hungry look, but a happy one. He looks so familiar that I just…

September 2026
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