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IN THE LAND OF THE FAIRY MÉLUSINE
Home to Santiago – Day 22 Ligugé Abbey to Lusignan: 31km Today is proving to be a pleasant, nondescript day after the excitements of yesterday. After getting up early, although not early enough for Lauds, I have breakfast alone, because everyone else is better than me. And I set off through the village of Ligugé,…
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MONKS AND MACARONS
Home to Santiago – Day 21 Dissay to Ligugé Abbey: 28km It’s an easy walk to rejoin the path in the morning. The ladies from the albergue have given us little pieces of paper with a map and instructions. So my school lessons on directions finally come in useful. When directions are given, I usually…
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THE MANU, BONHOMIE AND THE DISCOVERY OF GUINGUETTES
Home to Santiago – Day 20 Châtellerault to Dissay: 25km In a strange effort to prove my love to Châtellerault, I break the basic rule of using the cooler part of the day to get some kilometres under my belt. Instead, following the advice of the lovely young woman in the tourist office, I head…
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WALKING THE LINE
Home to Santiago – Day 19 Draché to Châtellerault: 35km Breakfast is prepared by Emmanuel, and I come down just in time to see Marie leave for work. He makes the coffee, as requested, and stays to chat. I realise that discussing the route would be the easiest topic for both of us, and also…
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MONUMENTAL
London to Santiago – Day 18 Sorigny to Draché: 32km This morning I wake up just in time to say goodbye to Fabrice. Peter is long gone. I take the opportunity to have a proper breakfast in the kitchen: cereal, rice pudding left by a pilgrim, hard-boiled eggs. God knows what has happened to the…
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LOST IN TRANSLATION
Home to Santiago – Day 17 Tours to Sorigny: 27km In the morning, I attend the blessing in the crypt of the Basilica of Saint Martin. I enjoy the ritual and the timelessness of it all. It gives you space, although I worry I am piggybacking on the faith of others. I stay for the…
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THE LOIRE REIMAGINED
Home to Santiago – Day 16 Villedômer to Tours: 35km I go to the pilgrims’ service in the morning in the little Campsite Chapel, as it would feel wrong not to. But I am the only pilgrim in the congregation, and I find the words and the kindness less sincere than the words and kindness…
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BETWEEN LE LOIR AND LA LOIRE
Home to Santiago – Day 15 Prunay-Cassereau to Villedômer: 19km I chat with Nadine over breakfast. The family are all still asleep. The children were up late. She’s a beautiful soul. She tells me about the little cake I’m having, my Ronsard, named after one of the poets of La Pléiade, and more importantly, full…
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EN FAMILLE
Home to Santiago – Day 14 Vendôme to Prunay- Cassereau: 26km Always stop at the first bar-tabac when walking into town. This morning the first bar-tabac is almost full of regulars working away at their scratchcards. But a stranger with a rucksack seems to make a welcome change. As soon as I walk in, one…
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HUMAN PICK-ME-UPS
Home to Santiago – Day 13 Cloyes-sur-le-Loir to Vendôme: 36km I love this morning already. All it takes is a pharmacy. After coffee in the corner café, I go in to the pharmacy to get some antihistamines to stop my legs swelling up from the bites, and the lovely lady makes every effort to understand…
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WHEN WALKING 