Home to Santiago – Day 15
Prunay-Cassereau to Villedômer: 19km
I chat with Nadine over breakfast. The family are all still asleep. The children were up late.
She’s a beautiful soul. She tells me about the little cake I’m having, my Ronsard, named after one of the poets of La Pléiade, and more importantly, full of almond and coconut, and absolutely delicious.
I have her homemade jam with the bread she breaks off, and a huge mug of coffee to start the day.
She’s had a difficult year with her husband’s illness and the loss of a close family member. But when I commiserate she says, “I have the children, and I have the pilgrims.” This urge to offer hospitality is overwhelming.
She’s never done the Camino herself and is unable to do so now, but last night, when she brought out all of the documents and helped me plan my stage for today, she was as much a pilgrim as anyone who’s done it, if not more. Strange how it gets people in different ways.
She sees me off, having told me to stay at the Château de Beauregard, where I am heading now. I should be there by lunchtime.
But in fact, knowing I have a short day, I take it very slowly. I do a little Chemin de Valéry Giscard d’Estaing, on her recommendation, going to the village to see his grave.
There I meet a small group from Lille, a mother and father and their adult son, on their way back from holiday. They’re also standing. We chat briefly: two parties, both travelling through.
It’s lunchtime already and because it’s Sunday, I hit Châteaurenault just in time, before the supermarket closes. After wonderful liberation for my rucksack and sticks (I’ve discovered now that the reception staff always take care of these at the Intermarché supermarket). I grab my lunch and sit in the shade in a completely empty square of Châteaurenault.
A French family come by, again also on holiday. I’m reaching the Loire soon, so I’m into holiday territory. And we chat briefly, but apart from that, there will be no one for the rest of the day.
After a scorching afternoon walk, I arrive early (for me) at Villedômer and head for the campsite of the Orangerie of the Château de Beauregard. It is a beautiful full-on fancy holiday place, full of English and Dutch, and some French here for their two weeks, swimming pool, petanque, walks in the wood, restaurant, bar. They’re all the kings of the castle, and sitting here, waiting for my handwashing to dry, I know who I am.
But there is also a pilgrim service in the chapel every morning (sadly I shall probably be gone before it starts) and spaces kept just for any passing pilgrims who turn up, so I too feel welcome here.
So, I find my little camp space and ask the Dutch family next door if I can borrow part of their washing line. And now I’m sitting outside the little bar area, resisting a burger, because I’ve got baguette and a banana, but drinking what turned out to be a very strong beer.
It will be an early night in preparation for a long day tomorrow.
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